Off the beaten path: Exploring in south Kananaskis along the Cowboy Trail

Written by: Tanya Koob

While the mountain parks get crowded and busy through the summer, solitude is almost guaranteed if you head south of Calgary following Highway 22 (the Cowboy Trail) past the small towns and villages of Bragg Creek, Diamond Valley, and Longview.

You’ll find many quiet campgrounds along the route as well – several that are even first-come, first-served, in case you dropped the ball on reservations or didn’t want to commit months in advance.

The following day trips all follow the Cowboy Trail south from Calgary, with extensions into Kananaskis for hiking, camping, or picnicking.

Day Trip 1: Bragg Creek with extension along Highway 66 into the Elbow Valley

Stop in Bragg Creek to visit the Frontier Candy & Ice-Cream shop. Take a stroll around the village and make sure to stop at one of the coffee shops. I love the pizza and baked goods at the Bragg Creek Bakery. Mabel and Marie’s is another great family-run bakery we like to support, and you can’t go wrong with the Heart of 

Bragg Creek for healthy vegetarian and gluten-free menu features.

From Bragg Creek, head west on Highway 66 for a scenic drive into the Elbow Valley of Kananaskis.

Recommended day-use areas and trails:

• Allen Bill Day-Use Area: Here you’ll find riverside picnic tables and places where kids will enjoy throwing rocks in the river.
• Fullerton Trailhead: Located across the road from Allen Bill, hike the Fullerton Trail in 6.8km round-trip distance with 200m of elevation gain. There’s a beautiful viewpoint over the river at the high point where we’ve had more than one picnic over the years.
• Elbow Falls Day-Use Area: Everybody loves visiting this popular waterfall, and you’ll find picnic tables near the river (with a large parking lot).
• Forgetmenot Pond Day-Use Area: At the end of the paved highway, you’ll come to the Little Elbow Campground. Park by the pond where you’ll find picnic tables and trails for meandering around the area. For a longer hike, this is the trailhead for Nihahi Ridge. The official trail is 5km return with 400m of elevation gain. The views are incredible from the shoulder of the ridge where the official hiking trail ends. Beyond the shoulder, you enter scrambling terrain to reach the top of the ridge.

Camping: First-come, first-served camping can be found at the Beaver Flats Campground.

Day Trip 2: Diamond Valley with extension along Highway 546 into the Sheep River Valley

Continuing south to Diamond Valley, the Chuckwagon Cafe is a well-known stop along the Cowboy Trail, with classic diner favorites for breakfast and lunch, open until 3:30pm on weekends.

Alternately, I recommend stopping in at the Eau Claire Craft Distillery to sample their locally produced spirits. They also serve great food on a family-friendly patio with mocktail options for the kids.

From Diamond Valley, head west on Highway 546 into the Sheep River Valley of Kananaskis.

Recommended day-use areas and trails:

• Sandy McNabb Campground: Drive down to the river and park near the group campgrounds to take a short hike on the Sandy McNabb Interpretive Trail (a 1.7km loop) which offers great views over the Sheep River. You can also continue on the Sandy McNabb Hills route for a longer hike. Nearby, I also recommend the High Noon Hills hike. See both hikes on AllTrails. Neither is an official trail, so route- finding is necessary.
• Bighorn Day-Use Area: A short drive further brings you to a flat walking trail, ending at wooden benches, overlooking the valley. It’s a five-minute walk but the viewpoint is worth the stop.
• Tiger Jaw Falls: Park at the Indian Oils Day-Use area and walk down to the river. You’ll find a large bridge with a waterfall cascading underneath. For a longer day hike, this is the starting point for the popular Dyson Falls trail (8.5km return).
• Sheep River Falls: The Sheep Falls Day-Use Area is a great destination for a family picnic with tables and fire pits on-site. The waterfall is a short walk from the day-use area and is much bigger than Elbow Falls.

Camping: First-come, first-served camping can be found at the Bluerock Campground at the end of the paved highway.

Day Trip 3: Longview with extension along Highway 541 to Highwood Junction

If you continue driving further south on Highway 22, no trip would be complete without stopping at the Longview Jerky shop. We also like visiting the Sugar Shack for ice cream.

From Longview head west on Highway 541 toward Highwood Junction, where you’ll meet Highway 40 from the south. If you continue driving along Highway 40, you can enjoy a lovely scenic drive over Highwood Pass towards the Kananaskis Lakes. Return to the city by driving past Kananaskis Village to reach the TransCanada Highway. Check a map before you plan your route and make sure you top up with gas if you need in Longview or at Highwood Junction.

Recommended day-use areas and trails:

• Popular hikes along Highway 541 and South Highway 40 include Cat Creek Falls (Cat Creek Day-Use), Pickle Jar Lakes (Lantern Creek Day-Use), and the Mt. Lipsett Trail (parking along the side of the highway). Consult the AllTrails app or website for information on each hike. Pickle Jar and Mt. Lipsett are decent day hikes, so make sure you plan a full day for either of them. We often eat dinner in Diamond Valley on the way home after hiking, stopping in at the Oxtail Indian Cuisine and Pizza Restaurant. It has the best Indian food I’ve ever had, and my son loves the pizza. Win-win for all!

If continuing to Highwood Pass, stop at the pass and hike the short Ptarmigan Cirque Trail into the alpine (4.5km return distance with 200m of elevation gain). 

Camping: First-come, first-served camping can be found at the Greenford Campground. Other campgrounds that take reservations, but tend to have last-minute availability, are the Cataract Creek Campground and the Etherington Creek Campground near Highwood Junction. Reservations can be made on the Alberta Parks website.

Safety Notes and Reminders for Exploring the Cowboy Trail and South Kananaskis

Don’t forget to purchase a Kananaskis Conservation Pass when you go. It is required to park at all trailheads. You can also purchase an annual pass. Purchase either a day pass or annual pass at the Shop Alberta Parks website (the same one where you book campsites). 

Other Considerations to Keep in Mind:

• The Highways in South Kananaskis are much quieter than those in the north. You won’t pass as many other vehicles should your car break down or you get a flat tire, and cell coverage is spotty to nonexistent.
• Trails in South Kananaskis are less crowded. I recommend carrying bear spray (and knowing how to use it). You can purchase it at any outdoor store.
• Restaurants in the small towns along the Cowboy Trail may close early, so research ahead of time if you’re planning to stop for dinner on the way home.
• Bring a map if you’re not good at navigation. Alternatively, download routes on the AllTrails app so you have an idea of where you’re going.
• Most trails in South Kananaskis are not well signed. Download your route and choose short hikes if you’re not comfortable with route-finding.

My family has fallen in love with the Elbow Valley, the Sheep River Valley, and the South Highwood area of Kananaskis. We spend most of our summer hiking and exploring these areas. Thanks to the ring road, these destinations are very accessible from north Calgary, too. Go exploring off the beaten path this summer and discover the quiet side of Kananaskis.

Tanya is a mother and a passionate enthusiast of all things outdoors including camping, hiking, stand-up paddleboarding, mountain biking, and skiing with her family and friends. She is the author of the blog "Family Adventures in the Canadian Rockies" at rockiesfamilyadventures.com and is very active on social media at MountainMomYYC.

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